Posted by '06 Winning Blue2 years ago
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Used Miata Soft Top
MIATA (1990‐2005) HARD TOP INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS The carbon fiber hard top can be installed without further finishing. The fiberglass hard top comes with a black gel‐coat finish and will need to be painted before installation. L Front air dam (port installation) lRain-sensing windshield wipers. L Manual black cloth convertible top lVent louver bezel - Bright l Seat back bar trim - black lIP lower panel PVC ilo plastic. 2016 MX-5 MIATA SOFT TOP Sport Club Grand Touring Opt. Mazda Miata HAARTZ Convertible Soft Top Replacement 1989-2005. (U.S.A) Mazda Miata Convertible Top * Years:1989-2005 * Treated to resist mold, mildew and UV damage for LONG Lasting * This top comes completely assembled and ready to install. FREE Convertible Top Installation Instructions: Mazda Miata Convertible Top Rain Rail 1989-2005. E-Z ON Auto Tops is one of the world’s largest manufacturers in convertible top replacement and auto headliners. 100% fit guarantee! Shopping Bag 0 item(s). This headliner will replace the original convertible headliner and will install just like the original. The E-Z ON Auto Tops Difference. Convertible BMW Window Installation Instructions. Put the top back up all the way, but do not lock it. Using a needle and thread, sew both ends of the zipper closed. Apply the contact cement in between the Black Canvas trim of the window and the window plastic under the trim. Let it dry for 10 minutes, or until it gells. Installing the new top. Place the top on the frame and work the top material around the B-pillars. Attach the tension cable screw by pulling the top material back to expose the screw. Rivet the top material to the frame (2 each side) and rivet the two 'phantom' rivets (2 each side).
Hello, I recently replaced my soft top and ran into some issues so I figured I would post a thread with some resources/pictures to help anyone in the future.
Removal: Plastic Removal: Step 1) Remove all of the plastic from seats back. Pieces include: Trimming next to your leg when you sit in the seat, second piece that rotates on a pivot point below the trimming (pop it off near where the seatbelt retracts and rotate it forward), then the big massive black panel behind the seats (dig your nail under the circular tabs and pop them out) and finally a few more pieces for sound insulation. Link1
Step 2) Remove the roll bar… there are many instructions on this and it’s just a lot of bolts and two nuts. Once you remove the bar, start yanking out all of the plastic behind the seats. A technique I learned was to wiggle a piece close to me and find the loosest end, then work my way in from there removing plastic tabs as I go. Once all the plastic is gone, take a break and drink some water.
Top Removal: Rain Rail – Remove all of the nuts and store them in your magnetic tray (which will be lightly torqued), then remove the defrosting plug. Take each (3 total) metal bracket and store it somewhere out of the way. Note: there is a small plastic pin on the very end of the rain rail on each side which is really hard to see. I would leave the rain rail in the car until you are ready to pull the fabric out entirely.
This part is very easy but can arguably be done first or last… unlatch the top and tilt it back a little bit. Remove all of the dark screws along the front of the top and put them somewhere you won't lose them (they are non-ferrous so a magnetic parts tray won’t work). Let the rubbery window liner dangle it by its plastic pin near the first major joint in the top. *** Once you remove the eye-bolt from the spring, you can pop the rubber window liner out.
Once they are removed, the thin (black) metal plate will detach. Store it somewhere out of the way.
Next, remove the two silver metal plates on each side of the top by unscrewing three silver screws on each side (non-ferrous, store them diligently). Using a scissors, cut the quarter strap on each side
Next, remove the two silver metal plates on each side of the top by unscrewing three silver screws on each side (non-ferrous, store them diligently). Using a scissors, cut the quarter strap on each side
Peel back the top a little bit and pop off the two plastic pieces (green - link 3) to expose the two dark springs which are connected to the tension wire on each side.
Miata Soft Top Installation Instructions
Prepare your drill with a larger bit than the hole on the rivet… next, slowly drill/remove the three rivets on the frame rail on each side of the car.
Next, bend the end of the spring so you can detach the eyebolt. This is NOT an easy task so be patient and you’ll get it.
Next drill out the two rivets on the quarter bracket and remove the nut. Make sure to catch the plastic piece as you drill out the 2nd rivet. Repeat for the other side. This will free up the top entirely and you can just lift it out of the car.
Setting the top on the ground with the exterior of the top facing down, start drilling out the rivets on the rain rail. This is NOT easy but gets better after you do a couple of them… I used plyers on one side pushing in the opposite direction of the force from the drill. This helped a little bit. Make sure not to damage the plastic on the rain rail while you do this!
Now you’re done with removal.
Setting the top on the ground with the exterior of the top facing down, start drilling out the rivets on the rain rail. This is NOT easy but gets better after you do a couple of them… I used plyers on one side pushing in the opposite direction of the force from the drill. This helped a little bit. Make sure not to damage the plastic on the rain rail while you do this!
Now you’re done with removal.
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Installation: **Preparation – Make sure you rivet the quarter bracket sandwich together before you put the top on the car. Makes it much easier. Also, leave the protective foam on the rear window so it doesn’t get scratched. One more thing, if you can, find a way to attach the rain rail and hold it in (maybe with a pin on one or two of the holes to keep the rain rail and fabric connected, then pull it out after you have a few of the nuts in place overtop the plastic only (pre-metal bracket stage)). The proper orientation of parts here is below (from inside of car to out): [Inside – Stick the rivet into this end]
- Metal Bracket
- Plastic guide piece (see picture for orientation)
- Plastic flap attached to the top
- Fabric flap attached to the top (you will need to pop two holes on this flap for each side when re-installing)
- Tension wire bracket (has cable protruding from it)
[Outside but hidden behind more fabric material – Rivet will expand and the bulb will be on this side]
Hold all of the parts together (hopefully you have a C-Clamp!), stick the rivet in and start pumping the rivet gun. Stick in the second rivet once you’ve done the first.. easier to line it up. Do the same for the other side.
Next, run the wire through the two fabric tunnels (they should have string in them but mine only had string through one). Repeat for the second side. Now you’re ready for installation!
Next, run the wire through the two fabric tunnels (they should have string in them but mine only had string through one). Repeat for the second side. Now you’re ready for installation!
Lay the top on the car, push/wiggle the large plastic flap bracket in between the frame rail and window frame and attach the quarter bracket to the stud, then thread on the nut.
Attach the long strap (posterior to the three rivets on the frame rail) to the third stud on the rain rail on each side of the car.
Attach the long strap (posterior to the three rivets on the frame rail) to the third stud on the rain rail on each side of the car.
Now push the rain rail against the studs in the back of the cab and thread on a few of the nuts lightly just to hold it in place. Once the rain rail in on, put the side metal brackets on first then the big bracket last.
Now reattach the eye-bolt on the wire to the spring, pop in the plastic material and reinstall the long skinny metal piece with the dark screws to the front of the top. Do the same for the side brackets (silver) and you might have to screw through the rubber material on the top as there are no preexisting holes].
Next re-rivet all of the little flaps back to their respective places and re-install all of the plastic.
Now reattach the eye-bolt on the wire to the spring, pop in the plastic material and reinstall the long skinny metal piece with the dark screws to the front of the top. Do the same for the side brackets (silver) and you might have to screw through the rubber material on the top as there are no preexisting holes].
Next re-rivet all of the little flaps back to their respective places and re-install all of the plastic.
That’s it! All done. Some pictures taken from Morris Green’s pdf which I will provide somewhere.
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